Full-frame cameras are the gold standard for a reason, but it may not be for you.

In the world of photography and the photographers I work with, Full Frame is a term whispered with the kind of reverence usually reserved for vintage Ferraris or aged scotch. For years, it has been marketed as the gold standard of photography, the moment you stop being an amateur with a light interest and become a real photographer with a passion.

But as technology has advanced, the gap between professional results and sensor size has decreased quite a bit. Here I present to you the reality of why full frame earns its reputation, and why might be better off without it.

Why It’s the “Gold Standard”

The term “full frame” refers to a sensor size that matches the traditional 35mm film format (36mm x 24mm). Because it’s the benchmark that lenses were historically designed for, it carries several objective physical advantages:

• Low Light Supremacy: Since the sensor is physically larger, the individual pixels (photosites) can be larger too. This allows them to soak up more light, resulting in cleaner images with less “noise” or grain when shooting in dim cathedrals or at late-night receptions. This factor alone sets full frame apart and makes it the worthy gold standard.

• The Bokeh Factor: Physics dictates that for the same framing and aperture, a larger sensor requires a longer focal length. This naturally produces a shallower depth of field, giving you those creamy, blurred backgrounds that make portraits “pop.” It is the difference between a professional looking wedding or portrait shoot, a professional product shoot, a professional wildlife shot and a less looking professional shot taken with a smaller sensor camera.

• Dynamic Range: Full-frame sensors are generally better at preserving detail in both the brightest highlights and the darkest shadows in a single frame, crucial for landscape, portrait, architecture and commercial work.
• Wider Field Of View: Physics dictates that full frame cameras can have much wider fields of view with far less distortion than sensors with cropped sensors (although there are many great wide angle crop sensor lenses these days), which is essential for some lines of work such as interior architecture and preferable for landscapes and cityscapes.

• No Mathematics Required: A 35mm lens on a full-frame camera looks like a 35mm lens. You don’t have to deal with the crop factor (1.5 or 2 times crop for example) that changes your field of view on smaller sensors.

Reality Check – Why You Probably Don’t Need Full Frame

If full frame is so good, why do some pros and a lot of advanced amateurs still use “crop” sensors like APS-C or Micro Four Thirds?

1. The Weight (Physical and Financial)

A full-frame sensor requires full-frame glass. These lenses need to be larger to cast a big enough “image circle” to cover the sensor. This results is that often this kit is heavier and more expensive, although if you buy carefully, you can get small and light cameras and lenses for your full frame kit. For many, the best camera is the one they actually want to carry on a hike or a city walk, not a heavier pro camera.

2. The Resolution Myth

Unless you are printing billboard-sized advertisements or cropping 70% of your image away, the resolution of modern APS-C cameras is more than enough. If your photos mostly live on Instagram, Vero, or even 11×14 prints, the “extra detail” of a full-frame sensor is effectively invisible to the human eye.

3. The Advantage of the Crop

In certain genres, a smaller sensor is actually a superpower:

• Wildlife & Sports: An APS-C or Micro 4/3 sensor can give you an effective 1.5 or 2 times crop of your lens. Your 300mm lens suddenly behaves like a 450mm or 600 lens, getting you closer to the bird or the athlete without the cost of a massive telephoto.

• Macro: Sometimes you want more things in focus. Smaller sensors provide a deeper depth of field at the same aperture, making it easier to keep a whole flower or insect sharp.

4. You simply do not do anything with your photos

As a recent article I wrote pointed out, and an overwhelming amount of people agreed with, sometimes you just take the photograph, and then do nothing with it! A lot of people do not even print their images. In this case, with no reason to sell your work, or no need for professional results, or you only print occasionally, or you rarely if ever go back over your work, then why bother wasting money, time and effort on the gold standard? Heck, if you only ever share your images on social media, go out and buy a bridge camera, because no-one will know any different!

Conclusion

Full frame is a specialist tool. It is the gold standard for low-light event photography, ultra-shallow portraiture, high-end commercial printing and for people who need their images to always be capable of professional results, and it is ok if that is not you.

However, for the enthusiast amateur, the travel blogger, the street photographer, the weekend hiker, or the family documentarian, a crop-sensor system offers 90% of the performance at 50% of the weight and cost. We make our choices based on our needs.

For myself, as you all know, I use and have used everything from tiny sensor old school CCD cameras, 1″ sensors, M/43, APS-C and of course full frame. In everyday shooting, I just use what I want for the look I want, and then print out my favourite photos.

---

You can find all the latest articles and blogs on my homepage here.
My main photography social media page is my Facebook One Camera One Lens Photography page.
Nikon Recipes for the Z system can be found here.
You can find a complete list of my gear here.