Where to find me on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook

As well as keeping up a blog with articles and photographs from my recent photography outings, I also run The Great Photography Walks NPT and have accounts on various forms of social media.

My Instagram Feed (latest updates below) usually has updates at least once a day, usually with alternate edits to what you see elsewhere. You can find me at @myonecameraonelens

My Twitter accounts are @Markyboyo for my personal Twitter and @PhotoWalksNPT for my work and group. I use my Markyboyo Twitter mostly to follow and interact with people.

My Facebook feed is restricted, but if you want to check me out, please visit HERE. I do accept friends requests to people I interact with only.

I am active elsewhere on the internet, but these are my three main sources. Feel free to interact with me in anyway that you want to, I am always available to return the message.

Fujifilm Film Simulations Update For September

This month has seen the release of three new film simulations, with Kodachrome and Kodak ColorPlus 200 being released at the beginning of the month, and today we release DoubleFilm BubbleGum for you all!

MGA Kodachrome – A nice accurate version of this loved film stock!
MGA DoubleFilm BubbleGum – A fun, lomography type of new film stock!

Currently we have 16 film stocks and exclusive film simulations for you to use with your Fujifilm camera, either in-camera or in your X Studio software! These are:

AGFA Ultra Colour 100 (Based on film stock)

Classic Chrome Faded

Classic Chrome Contrast

Colour Chrome

DoubleFilm BubbleGum (Based on film stock)

Kodachrome (Based on film stock)

Kodak ColorPlus 200 (Based on film stock)

Kodachrome Faded

Fujichrome R100 (V1.0) (Based on film stock)

Provia Natural

Velvia Dark & Contrast

Acros + R Deep (“Dark Skies”)

Acros +R Faded

Monochrome Deep Extra

Lecia M10 Monochrom (V1.0) (Based on digital film look)

Leica M10 Monochrom (V.2) (Based on digital film look)

Each one of these is carefully crafted using various techniques as described here. Ideally as a Fujifilm user, these film simulations look amazing when printed! Check out why printing is really important by visiting here.

There is a full guide on inputting these settings here for you to get the best usage in the quickest possible time!

Please say tuned for more film simulation releases coming in the near future! Your input would be much appreciated as to what you would like to see!

— Please remember, I only do this in my spare time, and there is a lot of testing involved to get things accurate. Please help me by sharing the site, or the Fuji page, and also looking at my photography, liking and commenting on posts, and generally being involved!

Snapshot… A word to be proud of.

Let’s make this quite clear. Photographers are a funny breed. While they aspire to be something they’re quite often not, they like to abuse others, or make them think they are inferior by using a word which has somehow become a derogatory word.

Let’s take a moment and see the dictionaries description of a snapshot:

1. an informal photograph taken quickly, typically with a small handheld camera.
“a collection of family snapshots”

But, that’s what makes snapshots the best kind of photograph, and these photographs will be the ones you cherish more than any through your time taking photographs.

What is a snapshot

A snapshot is a complement, you’ve managed to capture people, subjects and places naturally. You’ve captured a moment in time that, for a split second, will always be with you because of your timing.

Every time you’re out with the camera, every time you press the shutter release button, you’re taking a snapshot. The moment you start doing street photography, the moment you start shooting events, the moment you take photos of families and friends, the moment you chase the light for a landscape photograph. You’ll have a collection of photographs from that place and time… A snapshot of your time with the camera at that moment.

Is it an insult?

It’s time we changed the connotations of the word, we all take our best, and most importantly, most interesting photos when others claim them to be snapshots. Looking through people’s images, the ones that draws you in are usually the ones which the photographer thinks are his or hers weakest work, the ones that are not edited and have flaws. They’re the ones we all love.

It doesn’t matter if you photograph with a phone or a camera, snapshot is used as an insult, but it really isn’t an insult at all. It just means you have vision enough to capture moments as they are, and not a false representation of what you want it to be.

Aspire to make snapshot a word to be proud of. After all, it’s your most memorable work and the images you’ll always go back to.

— This is just an article to make to think about how you use the word “Snapshot”. Over the years, the word has been used in the wrong way too often. Let’s reclaim it!

Why 35mm focal length is perfect for photography


There is always an argument with regards to which is the best one focal length for photography, the best fixed prime focal length to work with for a multitude of scenarios. In this blog we will look at why so many people understand why around 35mm is the best focal length, and the only focal length you’ll ever need.

For this article I’ll be giving both APS-C and Full Frame equivalent focal lengths where necessary. The 35mm we are talking about, to put things into perspective would be equivalent to a 23mm on an APS-C camera or 17.5mm on a micro four thirds camera. So, let’s do this…

Knowing your 35mm

Since the days of film cameras, there have been two main prime lenses that people praise for being perfect for photography, the 35mm (as we mentioned above) and the 50mm (which would be a 33mm on an APS-C camera and 25mm on micro four thirds camera). Both these lenses come close to what the human eye sees in focus when you look at something, and because of this, they give a real-world view of your surroundings

The great thing about the 35mm is that you know if you see something you like, and raise the camera to your eye to take the photograph, there is no thinking involved, you can press the shutter button and the result will be identical to what your vision had seen in front of it. It makes a great lens for many purposes, it’s wide enough to use for landscapes and street photography, it’s perfect for portraits and just about any other type of photography where you need to capture what you see without the camera extending your vision. You’ll also find there is not much distortion with a 35mm focal length, and your subjects will look like they should, not exaggerated in the way a wider angle or a narrower angle would do.

A lot of people say similar about the 50mm lens, however, for me it’s a bit more limiting a focal length at times when you may need it. It’s a bit too long to be useful in tighter spaces or in general use, and it’s not quite wide enough to make it as versatile as the 35mm for landscapes, inside shots or street photography, however it can be great for portraits. As a “put to your eye and shoot what you see” lens though, it’s not quite as accurate as the 35mm. It’s always a tough decision for new photographers to make.

Freedom with a prime

For many people, usually those less experienced in photography, the thought of just taking and using one camera with one prime lens is a daunting one. Many think they will be afraid to miss a shot, or they won’t be able to get the composition that they wanted. However, it’s quite the opposite to what you believe. Having just one camera and one prime, especially the 35mm lens, brings you an experience that will produce you better images than you could have imagined. You’ll have to think about what you are doing for once in your life. No more relying on zooming in with your 18-300mm lens, but more wandering around and working out what works best. It’s like a voyage of discovery, with every step you take, a new composition will be unveiled, and it’s quite an exhilarating experience.

35mm lenses (or as close as possible) just work on so many levels. After a short amount of time with one, you will understand that in almost every situation they perform admirably. Of course, if you want distant shots, this is not the lens for you, but for most everything else, the wonder of using a 35mm prime is priceless, giving you a timeless look that only such a focal length can give.

Mistakes people make

There is one huge mistake that people make, usually those with APS-C or Micro Four Thirds cameras. They will buy a 35mm or a 50mm prime and wonder what all the fuss is about. That is because of course, people tell them “use a 35mm” or “use a 50mm”. In reality, on these cameras these lenses are equivalent to around 52mm and around 75mm. Both very different to what you actually need to be accurate! Ideally you should pick up a 23mm (35mm) or 33mm (50mm) or the closest lens you can.


Don’t be afraid to limit your equipment and enjoy the experience of just enjoying your photography. One camera one one lens with just the one focal length won’t limit what you can do, but will open your mind to new possibilities.

I said, over a year ago, that I was going to go almost exclusively prime lenses, and now the Viltrox 23mm F/1.4 lives on my camera, for it’s 35mm equivalent focal length. On the streets and with family I have my Fujifilm 27mm (40mm) F/2.8 pancake lens which is absolutely tiny, and for longer reach and portrait photographs I have the Viltrox 85mm F/1.8. For ultra wide angle shots and a bit of fun I have the Meike 6.5mm F/2! Now that’s a wonderful lens, and another blog!

Film Simulation Updates

Update 08-08-20

For those of you who shoot Fujifilm, you know you have the added advantage over other cameras of having the film simulation settings inside your camera’s and very easy to use. The Fuji section of this website currently hosts over a dozen custom made film simulations.

These film simulations are based on old film stock and general custom colour profiles enhancing your photography. It allows you to shoot in jpeg, and have the image you want, straight from camera, giving you an amazing base to which if you want to tweak, you have a great starting point.

Today (08-08-20) has seen an update of four more film simulations, three of which are classic film stock. You have Leica M10 Monochrom (v2) which is a tweaked version of the previous simulation targeted for delivering better shadows and making it more usable for people photography. You’ll also find AGFA Ultra Colour 100 which is a great film stock for vibrant photography, Kodachrome Faded which intends to make the film stock feel even more retro, plus we have MGA Classic Chrome Faded which is perfect for high contrast situations!

Head over to the Fuji page at the top of the website and check them out!