I live almost on the beach, and I love photographing Aberavon Beach throughout the year. In August, it’s usually a bit special as the sun sets over Swansea and we get some nice light.
Thursday August 27th 2020 was really not that a special sunset, but I think I captured some nice light. Using the Fujifilm X-T20 and XF27mmF/2.8 lens only after an afternoon of street shooting, this versatile lens proves itself to be jack and master of all trades.
The images were shot in Classic Chrome and edited in Photoscape X Pro for some quick edits. I’m just experimenting with a few different styles and looks of my images, and hopefully these images look good to you.
Feel free to make the images full screen, all EXIF data is included.
I didn’t actually out for a sunset shoot, so I am quite happy with the results considering it wasn’t planned.
Aberavon Beach is situated in Port Talbot, Wales, and is one of Wale’s premier beaches. Throughout the year the beach holds sporting and social events, and it attracts visitors from around the World. It’s a beautiful place to live, and more importantly, an important place to photograph!
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When you are a photographer, you need to make a choice how you are going to take photographs. As part of the one camera one lens ethos, tonight’s location shoot took place with a 27mm F/2.8 pancake lens in the centre of Port Talbot. There was a small food fayre there, and it was great to get out and capture people and places. It wasn’t the biggest event in the World, but the people were friendly and the food was good!
You have to be an experienced photographer, with a lot of belief in yourself to pull off shooting with only one focal length. Luckily in places such as this, its a good training ground for you to train and focus on what you need. There are so many photographers who would be zooming in and out of scenes to get the photo, but so much is missed, and when you get longer, you are out of the situation.
Here are a selection of the photographs taken tonight. All EXIF data is in the photo and they can be viewed full screen. The were edited in Photoscape X Pro, where a little tweaking was done to get the desired look I was after. Shot in camera with the Classic Chrome film similation.
All the above photographs are shown in chronological order, so that you get a feel of the journey we took. Ending in the Brian’s Fish Bar where we has a bag of chips!
Thank you to everyone who allowed us to photograph them! The food market is held the last Thursday of every month as the Transport Hub in Port Talbot, Wales, next to the train station.
— Please leave a Like and a Comment below, and have a look around the website. All my photographs are in blogs organised in the Photos section, while there are plenty of interesting blogs to read. Thank you very much.
There’s a way to capture the perfect photo, a way which will allow you to never miss the moment, … And it’s simple to do on any camera!
Most people, most of the time line up their composition, wait for the perfect moment and then press the shutter button. Their camera will click, and an image will be captured. This is all very good, and in days of film, it was the only way in which you really could take a photograph, however there is a little dial or switch on your camera that allows you to change your shooting habits forever!
Look at your camera and you will find markings stating C, CH or CL (and maybe something else depending on camera). These stand for Continuous, Continuous High and Continuous Low. This works really simply, the longer your finger is on the shutter release button, the more shots it will take!
Different cameras have different amount of frames per second that they can take, anywhere between 3 and 30+ per second. Ideally, for everyday use you need to set your Continuous Low (a bit slower than CH) to a shutter speed of between 3-5 shots, but this can be adjusted to your needs.
Now, when your camera is in your hand and you are taking photos of family of friends, hold the shutter and you’ll capture a few shots in quick succession, meaning at least one of your shots will be perfect with everyone’s eyes open, smiles and no blur! This works for other things such as flowers or insects, instead of one attempt, you’re firing off a few shots so the flower will be in the right spot if windy and the insect will be in focus if you’re up close!
Once you get into the habit of being in a continuous shooting mode, it’s hard to to rely on it as you’ll have way more usable shots. The downside of course is that you’ll have more shots to go through of you’re editing, but the chance of getting that perfect shot far outweighs the negative.
Give this feature a try! You’ll be surprised that you never used it before!
There was a time when the only photographs you could look at that you had taken were printed images. They may have been square Polaroids, 6×4, 7×5 or larger prints, and even passport sized images. They were stored away in photo albums and once in a while they were taken out to view. Inside those albums you’d find images of your friends and families, moments in time captured forever. You’d find photographs of places you’d visited, landscapes you’d admired, music artists you’d watched, random shots of animals and so much more.
In those photo albums you’d have photographs that your parents had slipped in from a time before you were born, and you could study your parents as children, your grandparents and their parents. Photographs sometimes hundreds of years old… Rarely seen… But there to bring back memories.
I’m sure after reading the first couple of paragraphs you’re already realising that the people before you, probably cared about photography, and the longevity of preserving the story of the past, far more than you ever thought. Think to yourself, when did you make an effort to print out your images on this scale? The chances are you haven’t (unless you’re one of the rare breed, like myself, who actually do print digital images and still take 35mm format film images).
For most of us, if we are of a certain age, if we were to lose our lives tomorrow, very few relatives would have the incline of where you store your digital photographs. Even if they have your computer or back up drives, do they have a password if it’s protected? Are all your images raw files, making it next to impossible for non-photographers to view or print? Possibly some will, but even not getting into your laptop or computer because of that password could instantly mean all your images will never be seen again.
And then there’s the old enemy called time. While generations from now can look at your fading, tattered photographs, will they be able to open your digital files as easily as looking at those photos? Will the digital files become corrupt over time? How many have lost files over the last few years because hard drives etc have failed on them?
Benefits Of Printing
If this hasn’t scared you into understanding the importance of printing nothing will! But as well as the significance of historical value, there are some true benefits to printing out your images for yourself, friends and family which we will look at here.
1. You can learn from looking at the printed photo – Yes! It’s all well and good looking at a monitor or your mobile device to look at photos, but when they’re printed they take on a whole new different life. You’ll see things you hadn’t seen before, you’ll appreciate them in an altogether different light. Print a few large enough to hang on the wall, and you’ll really start to understand where you’re going right or wrong as people comment on them, or you just judge it more over time.
2. People will appreciate your photos more – When people look at a digital photo, they have seen so many digital images, they don’t take in what exactly they are seeing. When people see a photograph printed, they can see, touch and smell and have a very different experience.
3. The image lifespan vastly extends – Your digital images will have a lifespan of interest of anything from a couple of hours to a couple of days depending on where they are on the internet. A printed image lasts forever. Your grandchildren will be able to pick up your photo album and admire your images many years after you have gone. Your digital prints will be gone from memory days after you’ve shared them.
4. You’ll understand you rarely need to edit – Editing has become a term synonymous with digital photography for those who think they are more serious about photography than others. Getting it right in camera, and printing the image as you seen it and you’ll realise, that the majority of the time, you don’t need to do anything to landscapes, people, buildings or places. Printing on various film stocks just make things look perfect!
5. You’ll learn to be selective over composition – Similar to the first point, over time you’ll learn which compositions work and which don’t. Seeing your photographs evolve over time, you’ll learn what works as what doesn’t.
What To Print?
We all have different things we want to print, so I’ll just describe what I print out and keep in my photo albums. Firstly, and mostly family, friends and people. The reason for this, it will be interesting for people now and in the future to view. There’s always something about family photos that draws people in, and it’s a historical record of your life. The important thing to me about these photos is that they are totally unedited (by me) and straight from camera. Thankfully shooting Fujifilm, these photographs look absolutely amazing when printed!
Secondly, for my photo albums, I print selected images that I’ve edited of landscapes, buildings, animals and insects etc. I don’t print many of these, just the ones I think people will find interesting, and the ones which offer some reference to a time or a place of possible. I also go over these photos quite regularly and think about how they would look as bigger prints for hanging on the walls
As mentioned, I also print out photos to hang on walls. Anything from A4 to whichever size I feel suits the room that it’s going to be situated. These are normally up on walls for a long time, and when it’s time to change them, they are usually given away to family or friends who have shown interest in them in the past. These larger prints are usually sunsets, landscapes, animals and insects or places.
The Benefit Of Being A Fujifilm Camera User
There are many benefit’s of using Fujifilm mirrorless camera’s, but one of the most beneficial, and the one that attracts so many photographers to the system is it’s ability to emulate older film stock. Fujifilm film simulations are more than just presets for your photos, they processed in your camera and act more like film than many think. They add grain and the colour reproduces as if you were using a 3mm film camera. Because of this, you can simply sent your camera’s jpeg straight to the printer and the final image will be as if you have had a film developed.
I’ve shot in most of the various film simulations, and Classic Chrome, Acros and Provia are my favourite straight from camera, while Velvia and Astia need to be experienced more as I think they have great potential. Also of course, with Fujifilm you can use your own film simulations and when they are printed, they look amazing too!
Regardless of how seriously you take your photography, print out your photographs. There’s literally no reason why you shouldn’t. If you have a printer at home, the quality is amazing these days so no excuse, if you haven’t got a printer, there are plenty of services which offer 50 free prints a month, cheap larger prints, canvases and much more at reasonable prices.
Having your images as digital photos only is a day reflection of the days we live in now. You won’t realise what you’re missing until you print. Even if you only print any special occasions you attend, or one of your favourite photos a month… Get printing and get hooked to seeing your photos as they should be seen. If they’re family photos, keep them real and just print the jpeg, it’s much more fun looking at photos that may not be perfect for whatever reason. If they’re photos of something you’re interested in such as landscapes or sunsets, print them and hang them on your wall and use them to improve and develop your photography skills.
— I’ve been a photographer all my life, printing all my life, taking photos all my life. I’ve done a few years of being a semi-professional photographer selling services and prints, however the last year I’ve taken time out to just enjoy photography, write blogs, give free lessons and run free photography groups. Please support me by following the blog and liking any pages or blogs that you read.
— Special thinks to my good friend Mike Winson for his wise words of wisdom on the importance of printing as opposed to just using digital files.
Onecameraonelens hosts over a dozen film simulations which were created by myself. Leica M10, Agfa, Kodachrome and Fujicolour are just a few of the examples of film simulations that have been based on classic film stock, while others are tweaked versions of Fuji’s own film simulations, giving an altogether different look.
The idea of this site is to build up a collection of simulations based on real film stock, however, the approach taken is slightly different from others, and this blog will explain how much work goes into creating the perfect film simulation (or as perfect as possible).
The point of creating film simulations is to get the camera to reproduce as close as possible, straight out of camera, a look that resembles film stock, or one that needs little to no editing in software later. Because of the experience of using a Fujifilm camera is very similar to using an old fashioned 35mm film camera, a lot of people like to recreate this as closely as they can. There’s nothing quite as exciting as taking photos with your Fujifilm camera and looking at the jpegs to see such stunning retro (or modern) images.
The first part of the process is to decide what film type needs to be emulated. This will be done by researching different looks of film, discovering old 35mm photographs and looking at other sources such as presets and LUTs on various computer programs. You can never do enough research to get things right.
Once an idea for a film simulation comes to mind, the process officially begins and the recipe starts to take shape.
A photograph, either digital or printed is placed near the screen and the camera is attached to the computer to use Fujifilm X Raw Studio. At this stage I have three images that I work on, one a photo with a person on it, one a photo of flowers and the final photo one with blue sky, green grass and trees in it. I constantly tweak one of the photos until it looks like the sample image and then go back and forth to my test photos until it starts to look like the real thing.
It is trial and error at this stage, and deciding on the right in-camera film emulation as a base point is priority. A lot of older chrome type films can easily have Classic Chrome as a base, while more colour film types will use Provia or Astia etc. Black and white is a bit simpler, but you still need to get your black and white type (monochrome or Acros) correct, along with adding the Red, Green or Yellow.
The process is literally, at this point, going through the settings in Fuji X Studio Raw and changing each one. Once you know the contrast, highlights and shadows are roughly what you need, it’s the all important White Balance section that takes the most amount of time to get looking right.
The White Balance affects everything in the image, and the offset settings of Red and Blue can make all the difference between getting things right and wrong. Quite often it will look right on one image, and then you take it across to an image with a person in it and the colour tones will be completely wrong. So you must tweak, with your test images to find a middle ground.
Once happy with the test images, the next stage is to try out the film simulation on even more photographs, with different subjects in them. When happy with this, the film simulation is stored in the camera and taken to the next shoot. At this point I will use the particular film simulation on location, and take photographs as normal. If I can see things not looking right through the viewfinder, I will tweak the settings in camera slightly to try and correct them, before getting back to the computer and just running through the process again to ensure things are as close as they can be to the look of the old film stock.
The process can take a few hours to perfect, and sometimes I label film simulations as Version 1 or Version 2. This is usually because looking at original photographs/LUTs etc, these can have slightly different looks in different circumstances, so Version 1 might be a general version of the new film simulation, while Version 2 might be more for people or different light conditions.
I do this for fun, and to hopefully bring other people some enjoyment. Some people will like some looks, some people will like other looks, that’s why I’m building up the collection as a resource for people. These film simulations may not always be perfect, because of the nature of photography, but hopefully they are damn close to what they are intended to be.
Think of film simulations as a starting point. In perfect conditions they should not need any tweaks in software once you’ve taken the photo, but it’s up to you. Please support me and my work by mentioning the website onecamreaonelens.com or using the hashtag #OneCameraOneLens and I will continue to create the most authentic film simulations that I possibly can.
Please like and share this blog so that people will understand how much work goes into making film simulations.
PART TWO coming soon – Complete guide to storing simulations on your Fujifilm.